tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64924532024-03-13T20:50:18.855+09:00FatMan SeoulSeoul searching .......... food for the seoulFatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.comBlogger113125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1113621181454206342005-04-16T11:41:00.000+09:002005-04-16T21:39:19.776+09:00Thank youDear readers of FatMan Seoul's blog,<br /><br />This will be the last post on this blog, if only to announce that FatMan Seoul is no longer in Seoul. He has relocated and therefore to continue this blog under the current title would be meaningless. <br /><br />He should have thought of naming it something more generic like "FatMan Eats" or "FatMan Is Just Plain FAT", or something geographically-unspecific like that. But now, to rename it everytime he moves would leave a trail of google-trash like FatMan Timbuktu, FatMan Bukino Faso, you get the idea. <br /><br />He wants me to tell all of you that he has truly enjoyed his virgin blogging experience, making so many great friends and receiving the rare e-mails and comments are the highlights of his otherwise mundane existance. He is proud to have been a member of a truly awesome food blogosphere, and wishes all his fellow bloggers much love and continued blogging. There's no need to long-list them all here, you guys know who you are. He will continue to visit, read, and occasionally comment on your blogs whenever time permits, which will very likely be limited considering his ever increasing work commitments. <br /><br />To the naysayers of this blog, just a parting word before I conclude. FatMan Seoul never once claimed to be an expert on Korean cuisine. If you had taken the time to read the "About FatMan" sidebar, you would have immediately realised that. The blog started out as his personal memoir for the sole reading pleasure of his family back home. <br /><br />This blog will continue to exist as is since FatMan has paid subscriptions till next year. Hopefully it will serve as a basic introductory guide to daily Korean food.<br /><br />It has been a journey well worth the ticket price. Thanks for the memories. <br /><br />Sincerely yours,<br />FatMan Seoul's alter egoFatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com111tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102490427628052542005-02-04T15:19:00.000+09:002005-02-03T15:23:31.996+09:00Insa-dong and rice crackersSo so sorry for the lack of foodie post of late. I'm really scrapping the barrel here, folks. Digging out old drafts of posts I've written but not yet published. Been really really busy. Anyway, this will be my last post for the month. I'm travelling at the moment, which makes it even harder to blog. Leave your thoughts in the comment section. Stay cool and happy eating.
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<br />Photos from a recent trip to Insa-dong, the artsy-fartsy tourist attraction in Seoul. Photos were taken circa November 2004.
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<br />Several visits on and I still see this procession happening on every trip I've made to Insa-dong. Not too sure if this is a weekend-only thingy, or it takes place daily. Not sure of the times either. So don't ask me. I've been fortunate to witness this every visit - must be my lucky Insa-dong star shining upon me. Unfortunately, I have absolutely no idea what it's all about!! Hahaha .... let's see if I can pull this off.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/insadong/001.jpg" />
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<br />You start off by seeing this group of flag bearers clearing the street of pedestrians. Obediently, everyone step to the side. It's also a signal for you to prep your videocam, digicam, cameraphone and what-not.
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<br />Those are fake beards and moustaches, in case you're wondering.
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<br />The man imprisoned in the first cage is presumably a criminal/offender of some sort, with his family (wife & children) following suit. The procession proceeds along the main street of Insa-dong, with one or two stops in between for some play-acting. Nothing exciting happens at the end of the street. They just steer off into the back and get undressed! What happens after is best left to your imagination.
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<br />So I've come to my own conclusion - this is a re-enactment of how offenders/criminals are shamed in public by parading them around the village, with family in tow for good effect. Ahhh ... the good old days. If you have more information about this, please share them in the comment section. Appreciate it.
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<br />Lots of street snacks all along Insa-dong's main street.
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<br />I came across this stall that sells a variety of rice crackers.
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<br />Notice in the background (next stall) - that's the giant custard cream puffs that's all the rage right now in Seoul. I'll probably do a post on that later on.
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<br />I've no idea what these are called in Korean. If you know, and I'm sure many of you do, do share. Comments section is where you need to go.
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<br />I've tried some of these rice crackers and I must say, they're pretty bland to me! :o) Maybe that's the way it's suppose to be. Anyhoo ..... like I said. Bland. Colorful though, interesting to look at, but bland. Did I mention bland?
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com142tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102490883790708432005-02-02T15:27:00.000+09:002005-02-02T16:00:47.120+09:00Doota FoodcourtHere are some photos of the recently renovated food court at Doota.
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<br />Refer <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/02/of-doota-and-korean-shoes.html">here</a> and <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/05/dongdaemun-2.html">here</a> for previous posts on Doota.
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<br />The system here is pretty standard as is everywhere else. You place your order at the cashier (above), pay and you get a receipt with your order number printed on it. Wait till your number appears on the LED signage and collect your food.
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<br />There are 8 stores at the food court, offering mostly standard Korean fares. There's a pizzaria that dishes spagetti, lasagne and pizzas (duh!), and a Chinese store that does pretty decent business, offering the typical "chinese" fare so familiar here - <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/jajang-myeon.html">jajang myeon</a>, jjam pong (seafood noodles) and <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/09/tang-bok-bab.html">bogeum bap</a>.
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<br />As far as food courts go, the limited number of stalls, and hence the variety of cuisine offered, is somewhat of a downer. Prices remain decently standard though even after the renovation; KRW5,000 - KRW8,000 per person will suffice. Tastewise, it's pretty standard stuff - nothing to shout about. Eating here is purely for the convenience of Doota shoppers and to give their weary legs a rest. There's better food to be had in the many eateries around the corner from here.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1106123348465051552005-01-27T13:02:00.000+09:002005-01-27T13:04:58.026+09:00Good Eats 3Continuing with our Good Eats series ......
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200412/kt2004121615480911720.htm">Ttok with a modern twist</a> at Jilsiru in Ywaryong-dong, downtown Seoul.
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<br />Tradition Meets Innovation in Rice Cakes
<br />By Lee Yong-sung & Kim Hyun-cheol, Staff Reporters
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<br />Food evolves as time goes on. Sushi served at a Japanese restaurant here cannot be the same as genuine Japanese Sushi. By the same token, the kimchi we eat everyday can hardly be the same as that of centuries ago in tastes and style.
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<br />The important thing is that it always changes in a way that satisfies more of people's picky tastes. Long-loved as a traditional dessert in Korea, "Ttok" or rice cake (not the dry, crispy American health food type of rice cake) has been destined to follow this evolution as well.
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<br />Ideally made of rice, ttok had long been treated as very special, eaten only on holidays in those days when foods were scarce. However, recent times have been richer and, with the surplus rice, the rice cake quickly lost its special status as the most popular national snack, failing to appeal to the taste buds of young Koreans. Smitten into fast foods of Western origin, they tend to think that biting into big chunks of ttok is far from cool. Well, at least until an institute specializing in the study of traditional Korean food came up with the idea of a "ttok cafe", where about 50 different kinds of both traditional and newly developed rice cake items are sold like hotcakes.
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<br />Located on the first floor of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food, Ywaryong-dong, downtown Seoul, rice cake cafe Jilsiru (named after the unglazed earthenware steamer used to cook rice cakes) has lured back the younger generations, as well as foreign visitors, into eating rice cakes, with bite-sized ttok coming in all shapes and colors. "I used to hate ttok because of its sticky texture, but it is totally different here", Lim Soo-ji, a 25 year old graduate student said.
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<br />Opened in January of 2002, the cafe takes ttok far beyond the rice flour and beans variety. Coffee, apple, cocoa, berries and even dried tropical fruits like mango and pineapple are baked into ttok here. Beautifully dyed with natural juices, their colors hint a wealth of flavors, self-explaining the meaning of the old saying, "Ttok that looks good also tastes good."
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<br />The most popular on the menu here is the ttok meal combo (5,000 won), which includes a ttok sandwich with salad filling, along with ttok rolls with kimchi, fried ttok with caramel dipping sauce and a piece of coffee ttok cake. Various type of ttok is available in piece (1,000 to 2,000 won) and large ttok cakes (20,000 to 35,000 won) are also made to order, with an hour advance notice.
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<br />Jilsiru is also well known for 14 different traditional teas, which are all brewed from fresh ingredients. One of the most famous tea items here is Siru Mugwort Tea (5,000 won), which is made of dried mugwort gathered during spring. The uniquely deep, fragrant smell of it is key to its popularity. Another famous tea is Siru Flower Tea (5,000 won), which is made of fermented green tea flower that starts to blossom from the middle of October.
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200501/kt2005011316150211700.htm">Don kaseu (pork cutlets)</a> at Dr. Oh's Pork Cutlet (Obaksane Tonggas), Sungbuk-dong, northern Seoul.
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<br />Drivers Love Dr. Oh's Pork Cutlets
<br />By Lee Yong-sung & Kim Hyun-cheol, Staff Reporters
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<br />Drivers' restaurants, or "kisa sikdang" in Korean, are a unique variation of regular Korean restaurants, whose main customers are taxi drivers who cannot waste time searching for a restaurant with parking or even in the act of eating.
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<br />Those restaurants are unique in that they promise not only quick service but also free parking and some even offer free car washing service. Located at the entrance of the fancy residential area Sungbuk-dong, northern Seoul, Dr. Oh's Pork Cutlet (Obaksane Tonggas) is one of the better-known eateries among Seoulites.
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<br />Meeting all the criteria of a fine driver's restaurant, the diner specializing in pork cutlets provides free parking and quick service, but that's not all. Pork cutlets here are as big as a car tire! Okay, maybe not that big, but it certainly is closer to the size of a steering wheel.
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<br />The taste is not exactly first class but it's more than good enough considering its price of 5,500 won. It is not like the popular Japanese-style pork cutlet, which is loved by younger generations. The pork cutlet at Dr. Oh's is thinner, larger and crispier (the most conspicuous difference between Japanese pork cutlet and the local version will be that chopsticks, instead of fork and knife, are used to eat it). In fact, pork cutlet originated in the west, but after going through the localization process, it has become one of the most popular dishes in Japan, as is curry and rice.
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<br />Those who were in college during the '70s through the early '90s, when fancy franchised restaurants had not yet invaded local college towns, will find this restaurant sentimental. Back then, a huge crispy pork cutlet served with white cream soup and a simple cabbage salad was something that made special moments even more special, though the restaurants were far from modern and stylish.
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<br />Dr. Oh's Pork Cutlet has revived them all, including the soup and salad. The restaurant attracts about 500 customers, not just the cabbies, but everyone who believes the prime virtue of food is quantity, of fairly good quality as well.
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<br />All of the dishes are served almost as soon as they are ordered, but they are never precooked. Each dish is made-to-order, guaranteeing freshness. In addition to the pork cutlet, hamburger steak (6,500 won), which is made of ground beef and vegetables, is another popular dish. Fish cutlet (5,500 won) and beef cutlet (5,500 won) are also recommended.
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200412/kt2004123016521111720.htm">Budae jiggae</a> at Kwanghwamun Pudaejjige in Kwanghwamun, Seoul, right across from Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency.
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<br />From Trash to Delicious Treasure
<br />By Lee Yong-sung & Kim Hyun-chul, Staff Reporters
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<br />Most food we eat doesn't have noble origins of course, but talking about one with a unique origin, almost nothing matches "pudaejjige (spicy stew made with Spam, sausages, ramen noodles)" among Korean food.
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<br />Also known as "Johnson tang (stew)", or army base stew, the origins of the dish can be found in Korea's leaner years in the aftermath of the Korean War, when the poor used to collect discarded food from American military installations for use in stews.
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<br />With a little bit of exaggeration, the dish is one of the few relics passed down from the most tragic event of the country's modern history, as well as a perfect example to show how tradition combines different culture to create a new cultural resource, which later becomes part of the tradition.
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<br />Although leftover food is not used for the stew today (not openly at least), as it probably was done after the war, the recipe remains almost the same, in which items of Western food are submerged in the traditional hot and spicy Korean stew to produce a unique flavor not found in other Korean dishes.
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<br />Whatever its origin, pudaejjige is now widely loved as a Korean dish, not only by young students with no money, but by just about everyone. Opened this month, restaurant Kwanghwamun Pudaejjige serves high quality pudaejjige (sounds like an oxymoron, but its true).
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<br />Located in the new combined commercial and residential district of Kwanghwamun, right across from Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency, the upgraded diner attracts a power crowd during lunchtime already, with top quality ham and sausages, and a fresh attitude.
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<br />Usually, beef bone soup is used as the soup base of pudaejjige. However, Mun Bok-rye, the restaurant's owner found it a little greasy, which led her to come up with the idea of tasty but not greasy pudaejjige (5,000 won), in which tangle weed and anchovy are used in place of the bone soup. Mun got the idea from her 13-years know-how of running a swellfish (pok-o) restaurant (fresh soup is the key to good swellfish stew).
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<br />Ham and sausages used here are all high quality brands purchased from a reliable retailer,not generic brands. Besides pudaejjige, grilled sausage and bacon (6,000 won) is also a specialty. It promises to taste best when eaten with grilled kimchi, adding a little bit of garlic powder on it.
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<br />Combined with hot pudaejjige, the grilled dish will provide a very unique cross-cultural feast that is sure to help you forget the bitter cold weather for a while. Unlimited bowls of rice and ramyon noodles are also served without any extra charge.
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200501/kt2005010616534611720.htm">Thai food</a> at Khaosan, in the Hongdae/Hongik University area in western Seoul.
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<br />Thai Delight Comes to Southern Seoul
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol & Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />It is not strange many of those who have been to Thailand have been fascinated by the fathomlessly unique world of Thai cuisine, from the morsels from street vendors to lucrative full-course dishes in fancy restaurants.
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<br />But it is also understandable when they miss the taste that they hesitate to try some of the Thai restaurants available in Seoul. How could it ever be pleasant for them to have to pay tens of thousands of won for the dishes they enjoyed for not above a couple thousand won back in Thailand?
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<br />In that regard, "Khaosan", a Thai restaurant located in the Hongdae, or Hongik University area in western Seoul, has been a reliable place since its opening in 2002, serving quality foods at reasonable prices to Thai-food lovers. Now the place has taken up a challenge _ it has opened its second store in the Kangnam area in southern Seoul, an area totally different to the backpackers' street in Bangkok, after which the restaurant was named.
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<br />Most pleasing to fans of the place is that the prices stay the same as in Hongdae, even though it lies in one of the most budget-guzzling regions of the city. All the dishes range 5,000 to 6,000 won except special ones like "tom yum kung (spicy shrimp soup)" (8,000 won) and "poo phad pong kari (stir-fried crab with curry)" (9,000 won).
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<br />"Yam unsen", or Thai-style glass-noodle seafood salad (7,000 won), is an interesting appetizer that reflects the character of Thai cuisine with its intense harmony of spicy, sweet and sour flavors.
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<br />Dishes like "khao phad sapparot (fried rice with pineapple)", (5,000 won), or "phad thai (fried noodle)", (5,000 won) appeal to most Korean eaters as non-risky choices for those not familiar with Thai food. All other items on the menu list are served with plain rice or rice noodles.
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<br />Some loyal Thai-delectable devotees, however, will prefer to try some of the full-scale dishes on the menu, which will unexceptionally include tom yum kung, a world-famous soup. However, if you want to experience a real exquisite combination of hair-raisingly sour and spicy tastes with a gentle touch of coconut milk, don't miss this unexpectedly surprising dish of "tom ka gai (chicken and coconut milk soup)", (8,000 won).
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<br />A handful of "pakchi", or coriander, on the soup will be enough to make you feel as if you were right under the sizzling Thai sun, but you will have to ask for that separately, because unlike in Thailand proper, dishes served here don't include that particular herb as it is not favored by most local customers.
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<br />Even though Thai dishes might be too strong-flavored to some Korean people, the place doesn't make their items as mere "fusion" cuisine catering to the novice tastes, said Lee Jung-im, owner of two Khaosan restaurants, and Lee Dong-eun, manager of Khaosan Kangnam and also sister of owner Lee.
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<br />"We bring all the materials like spices and herbs directly from Thailand, except for common vegetables, meat and seafood", Jung-im explained. "It is true the dishes served here are a bit milder than the original ones, but we follow authentic ways of cooking them, especially for tom yum kung and poo phad pong kari".
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<br />Dong-eun added: "Thai cuisine is distinctive, pleasantly stimulating and also nature-friendly as they focus on livening up the original flavors of ingredients with various kinds of natural spices".
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<br />"We believe more Korean people will be enchanted with the diversity of Thai food bit by bit".
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200412/kt2004120916083711700.htm">Kimchi jiggae</a> at Jangttugari in Kwanghwamun, Seoul, in the vicinity of the US Embassy nad Kyobo Book Store.
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<br />Enjoy Rich Kimchi Stew at Jangtugaree
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol & Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />Of all the delicious Korean cuisines, "kimchi chigae", or kimchi stew, is no doubt the dish most favored by Korean people. It is the taste they miss after a long stay abroad and also the very first image that comes to mind when they hear the words "flavor of home".
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<br />That's why most Korean restaurants have this item on their menu, and also why it's not really easy to find a really lip-smackingly good one either. Indeed, most Korean men claim to have at least kimchi chigae down, but on the other hand, it seems to be a dish that is quite hard to cook really well. Just the notion of kimchi chigae as the most common dish makes it hard to attract the mass of Korean gourmets.
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<br />Most lovers of the dish prefer it in authentic style, usually characterized by a thick heavy soup. However, if you want to try some other styles, "Jangttugari", a newly built restaurant in Kwanghwamun area, will offer you a good alternative choice.
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<br />Just about four months since its opening, Jangttugari has already gained a favorable reputation, becoming packed with customers in every lunch break and forcing latecomers to queue up for a long time outside. And almost every one of them comes here to enjoy the kimchi chigae.
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<br />The dish served here is more modern but with a touch of elegance added to this traditional dish. Actually, the kimchi chigae here is called "kimchi kamjong" (6,000 won) on the menu. Kamjong is the Royal Court's word for chigae.
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<br />At the first mouthful you will notice a sharp but light-feeling mixture of sour and spicy tastes, stimulating the taste-buds enough but different from your run-of-the-mill kimchi chigae. The well-balanced soup somehow reminds one of "tom yum kung", Thailand's world-famous hot and sour shrimp soup.
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<br />The key to its full-bodied gusto comes from the special kimchi. All kimchi used goes through a maturation period for one year, as it is often served in the Cholla region, enriching the dish of kimchi kamjong. Fresh pork meat added to the stew also makes a nice combination with the kimchi stock.
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<br />"Kyeranmari" (5,000 won) is a Korean-style omelet and another favored item to be ordered along with kimchi kamjong. With cheese stuffed inside, unlike original Korean style, the kyeranmari served here first pleases the eyes with its surprisingly generous portions and then pleases the mouth with the rich and exotic taste of a Korean dish with a western touch.
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<br />"Ogyopsal" (12,000 won) is another major item on the restaurant’s menu. The word ogyopsal means it has a better taste than usual "samgyopsal (barbequed abdomen part of pork)", and the slices are 12 millimeters thick, since it tastes best that way, according to the restaurant. Cooked on a stone plate with kimchi, Jangttugari's kimchi chigae would surely seem a rich, even lavish meal for even the most discerning gourmet.
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200501/kt2005012017230211700.htm">Sigol changto gukbap</a> at Sigoljip in Chongno, downtown Seoul.
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<br />Taste of Traditional Marketplace at 'Sigoljip'
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol & Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />Anywhere you go in Korea, there is a marketplace, an exciting and invigorating place full of liveliness and real, regular people. Even though an authentic traditional market can no longer be found in big cities, the image of it still remains as nostalgia to many of their residents.
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<br />Just like the memories of the place, its most representative dish of traditional beef soup with rice, or "changgukbap", has been one of the all-time favorites for Koreans, especially adults. The meat soup, long-boiled with various ingredients, is a comfortable dish that can make one feel full by just looking at it.
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<br />"Sigoljip", which means "country house", a 17-year-old restaurant located in an alley facing the main street of Chongno, the heart of Seoul, takes customers back in time while enjoying the atmosphere of a marketplace and eating to your fill.
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<br />Sliding open the large gate to enter the shabby tile-roofed house reveals two large pots boiling away with broth. The look and the pungent smell of the soup with peppery oil on top immediately begin to stimulate customers' appetites.
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<br />On both sides of the pots lie small, partitioned eating rooms with Korean-style papered sliding doors around tables in the middle hall.
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<br />The most famous item on the menu, no doubt, is country-style marketplace soup with rice, called "sigol changto gukbap" (5,000 won). It is bone-based and quite hearty with chunks of beef, vegetables and blood curd, or "sonji".
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<br />The soup is surprisingly thick from being boiled down and thus looks quite greasy, but doesn’t actually taste that way. It is good for a meal and often favored as a hangover soup after a night of drinking. The rich, strong flavor shows one of the essences of Korean cuisine, the art of boiling soup.
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<br />Another recommendable choice that goes well with sigol changto gukbap is gridiron-cooked beef barbeque, or "bassakbulbogi" (15,000 won). It can be seen ceaselessly being grilled over a briquette fire in an open kitchen at the corner of the restaurant.
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<br />It is a chopped beef brisket with the fat removed and marinated simply with traditional soy sauce and sesame oil. The adequately seasoned barbeque au naturel makes a perfect combination with the soup and tends to make people want to accompany it with some Korean liquor like "soju" or "makgoli", quite spontaneously.
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<br />With some other dishes like assorted grills, or "modumjon" (8,000 won), you won't be in need of fancy restaurants. If you want an informal meeting with close friends for a rich and substantial meal at a reasonable price, Sigoljip is the place to go.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_3/sigoljip.jpg">
<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_3/sigoljip_2.jpg">
<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_3/sigoljip_map.jpg">
<br /></blockquote>
<br />
<br />Earlier in the series:
<br /><a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/11/good-eats.html">Good Eats</a>
<br /><a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/12/good-eats-2.html">Good Eats 2</a>
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102490739883343302005-01-27T13:00:00.000+09:002005-01-27T13:04:10.116+09:00Changdeokgung PalaceThis is the main gate to <a href="http://www.ocp.go.kr/english/treasure/dom_cdk.html">Changdeokgung Palace</a>. The Palace is inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List and is therefore a duly protected site.
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<br />It's within walking distance from Gyeongbokgung Palace. I've been inside on previous occasions, and the Secret Garden is just lovely. Unfortunately I don't have any photos suitable for sharing on this blog, except the following.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/changdeokgung/001.jpg" />
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<br />These are some photos of the changing-of-guards ceremony reenacted for the many tourists (and locals) that flock to the Palace.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/changdeokgung/002.jpg" />
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<br />The guard changing ceremony is held twice daily, and typically lasts about 20 minutes or so.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/changdeokgung/003.jpg" />
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102490356750334452005-01-25T11:17:00.000+09:002005-01-25T11:41:17.560+09:00Gyeongbok PalaceGyeongbok Palace (<a name="content_top">경복궁</a>, transliterated, Gyeongbok Gung) is one of Seoul's top tourist attractions, if you're into royal palaces and that sorta thing.
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<br />I shan't bore you with its history, simply because I know nothing of it. If you're interested, an excellent article on Gyeongbok Palace can be found <a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200412/kt2004120817091911000.htm">here</a>. The internet is abundant with info on this Palace as well - just google it.
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<br />Tourist related info (opening hours, transportation, tickets, etc.) can be found <a href="http://english.tour2korea.com/sightseeing/destination/depth04.asp?oid=&sightseeing_id=176&ADDRESS_1=6142&ADDRESS_2=&sight=sightseeing">here</a>. More photos and an excellent overview map of the Palace grounds and how much is NOT opened to the public can be viewed <a href="http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/seoul/gyeongbokgungindex.htm">here</a>.
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<br />Instead, I'll just share some of the photos I took from my recent trip there, circa November 2004. The gloomy winter overcast isn't particularly camera-friendly, so be forewarned. Beware dial-up users - lots of photos ahead.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/palace_overview.jpg" />
<br />(This overview map flicked from <a href="http://www.visitseoul.net">www.visitseoul.net</a>)
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/003.jpg" />
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<br />The guards at the outer gates to the palace (somewhere approximating no. 1 on the map).
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/001.jpg" />
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<br />The main gate to the outer courtyard (no. 2 on the map). Ticketing booths are to the right - KRW1,000 per adult.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/002.jpg" />
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<br />Closer shot of the above. Note the 12 animals of the lunar calendar on the roof. They're on the roof of most of the structures here.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/004.jpg" />
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<br />Shot of the gate from the inside, opposite direction.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/005.jpg" />
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<br />Gate to the inner courtyard (no. 4 on the map).
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/006.jpg" />
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<br />The main hall (no. 8 on the map). Note the stone stumps to the left and right of the walkway - I was told that that's suppose to be markers indicating who stands where - they're each inscribed with the names of the respective ministers, generals and other senior government officials.
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<br />Also note the slightly elevated path in the centre of the walkway.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/010.jpg" />
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<br />Here's a side profile shot. The centre path, of highest elevation, is reserved for the King. You'll see this elevated pathway throughout the grounds of the Palace.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/007.jpg" />
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<br />The main hall (no. 8 on the map).
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/008.jpg" />
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<br />Close-up of the main hall.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/009.jpg" />
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<br />The courtyard surrounding the main hall (no. 7 on the map).
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/013.jpg" />
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<br />The inside of the main hall.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/011.jpg" />
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<br />That's the King, looking well after all these years.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/012.jpg" />
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<br />A piece of artifact from the good old days - a sundial.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/016.jpg" />
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<br />A nice tree.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/015.jpg" />
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<br />Small park within the palace grounds (no. 11 on the map). Busloads of tourists from Thailand on this day.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gyeongbokgung/014.jpg" />
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<br />This pagoda like structure (no. 22 on the map) is quite a beauty. It's actually one of the three inter-connected buildings housing the National Folk Museum.
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<br />Hope you enjoyed the photos.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1105604895416168132005-01-19T16:25:00.000+09:002005-01-19T16:41:29.996+09:00Duck Bossam & Soondubu JiggaeToday we're having dinner at <a href="http://www.nolboo.co.kr/consumer/menu/main.asp">Nolboo Bossam</a> (놀부보쌈), one of the many branches of the Nolboo chain of restaurants. There's Nolboo this and Nolboo that everywhere in Korea.
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<br />You can't miss their branding, which looks like this:
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/logo.jpg" />
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<br />In particular, I wanted to try out their duck bossam. I haven't had duck since the last time I had duck, and I've been craving for some ever since I started craving for some.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/001.jpg" />
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<br />Scoping the place out.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/002.jpg" />
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<br />Panning right.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/003.jpg" />
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<br />It started off with a large pot-sized bowl of jang gook, Korean bean-paste soup. If I needed to draw a comparison, this would be the Korean counterpart of the Japanese miso soup. The soup had chuncky bits of mustard leaves and chinese cabbage in a dwenjang-based soup stock (bean paste soup). Warm, salty and a nice start to the meal.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/004.jpg" />
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<br />This is the main course. Smoked duck bossam (오리훈제보쌈 - ori hoonjae bossam; ori=duck, hoonjae=smoked, bossam=stuffed kimchi). KRW20,000.
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<br />The side dishes are pretty straight forward stuff - mix of corn, diced cucumber, potatoes & carrots in mayo dressing, garlic and fresh green chili slices, samjang (mix of bean paste and chili paste) and pickled cucumber.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/005.jpg" />
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<br />Clockwise from 12 o'clock : green lettuce (상추 - sang chu) leaves, shredded onions (양파 - yang pa) tossed in vinegar, sugar and light dash of dried chili flakes, the smoked duck, arrowroot (칡뿌리 - chilburi) kimchi and fresh chinese cabbage (배추 - bae chu) leaves. At the centre is the honey mustard sauce.
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<br />Grab either of the cabbage or lettuce leaves, pick a bit of everything and stack them on your vege, roll/wrap it all up and stuff it into your mouth in one go. Yummy!!
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/006.jpg" />
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<br />The duck is deboned and the resultant fillet is then rolled, tied and smoked. The smoked meat is then sliced and slightly baked before serving. The smell of smoked meat immediately hits you as the dish makes its way to the table. Think grilled bacon and you're not far off.
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<br />The meat lacked that "ducky" flavour that I had hoped for, with the "smoky" component overpowering any "ducky" elements of the meat. The meat is best savoured on its own; adding the other condiments to your palm wrap distracts you from enjoying the full flavours of the meat.
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<br />An interesting way of taking your duck nonetheless.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/007.jpg" />
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<br />This is another house speciality, the arrowroot kimchi, or referred to here as kimchi bossam (김치보쌈). Sweetish, not overly spicy despite the misleading red and offers a nice crunch to the bite.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/008.jpg" />
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<br />After a quick poke test on the tummy to confirm there's still space in there for more, I ordered another of the house speciality, the soondubu jiggae (순두부 찌개) + dolsot bab (돌솥밥) set.
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<br />The photo above is the soondubu jiggae, or soft tofu spicy stew.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/009.jpg" />
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<br />There's some decent-sized prawns in there, some clams and just the right amount of silky smooth soft beancurd. The stock obviously benefitted from the use of fresh prawns (as opposed to dried shrimps which is more commonly used), and coupled with the right blend of chili paste, infused the jiggae with the desired oomph. Thumbs up.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/010.jpg" />
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<br />This is the dolsot bab (돌솥밥), or hot pot rice. The sight of this instantly reminded me of claypot chicken rice, a favourite with the locals in Singapore and Malaysia. Anyway, getting back to this ....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/nolboo_duck/011.jpg" />
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<br />Uncovering the wooden lid reveals this. The rice is boiled in this stone bowl over an open flame, and nearing the end, is topped with some kidney beans and a small cut of sweet potato. The rice is soft, moist, and just the slightest hint of sweetness and is the perfect companion to the soondubu jiggae. The soondubu + dolsot bab set costs KRW5,500.
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<br />Hope you enjoyed my meal as much as I did.
<br />
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1105605086867924242005-01-17T17:29:00.000+09:002005-01-17T19:00:03.623+09:00Yong Pyong ResortOK. The previous post was my feeble attempt at comedy. Not very good, I know. Sorry .....
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<br />My New Year was spent at <a href="http://www.yongpyong.co.kr/eng/index.asp">Yong Pyong Resort</a>, and boy did I spend! The Yong Pyong (Ski) Resort is in Gangwon-do, the province east of Seoul. It's approximately 200 kilometres from Seoul, or about 2.5 hours by road. Several days if you walk from Seoul though. Yong Pyong, along with <a href="http://www.mujuresort.com/english/e_index.asp">Muju Ski Resort</a>, are the largest two in South Korea in terms of slopes, lifts, facilities and acreage.
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<br />I did notice, which isn't very hard as you see it everywhere, that the Resort goes all out to brand itself as "Yong Pyong All-Season Resort", highlighting that it's not just a winter destination. There's golf, trekking, blah blah blah .... anyway we're here for the snow and skiing. So let's go.
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<br />(p/s : ignore the time stamp on the photos - they're all screwed up)
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/001.jpg" />
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<br />Stayed at the Dragon Valley Hotel - KRW240,000 per room per night. Pricey for what I would regard as a very basic room. Sorry no photos of the room.
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<br />This is the check-in lobby.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/002.jpg" />
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<br />This is the hotel's smallish (12-15 tables) coffee house right at the end. Had dinner there one night, KRW15,000 average per person for a plate of fried rice or chicken main course. The entrance to the Korean restaurant is to the right of the coffee house entrance in the photo above, just after the wine racks.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/003.jpg" />
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<br />The Hotel's lounge, complete with fireplace, which is purely for show though. The burning of 2 puny logs isn't going to warm my -8 degrees body.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/004.jpg" />
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<br />An overview of the main slopes. They look like ants on a sugar hill. This shot was taken from the hotel room.
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<br />The building to the right is the Dragon Plaza Ski House, which is the main ski complex. More on that later.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/005.jpg" />
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<br />The walk from the Hotel to the slopes is only a short one, some 100 metres or so. Exiting from the hotel, you're greeted with this view.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/006.jpg" />
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<br />This is the Dragon Plaza. This is where you get to rent your equipment (if you don't own your own) and lockers, dressing rooms, ticketing booth for the ski lifts, eateries, pro shops, ski schools and the medical facility. Speaking of the latter, there sure was a lot of ankle twisting going on there that day.
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<br />The ski rental rates are pretty decent. You can get suited up with skis, boots and poles for about KRW25,000 or thereabouts. Snowboard rentals are about 25%-30% more.
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<br />Complete info at their website if you need to know.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/007.jpg" />
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<br />A fine day to be skiing or boarding. Clear skies, sunny weather .....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/008.jpg" />
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<br />.... and about 2,000 people screaming their way down the hills.
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<br />Oh, and if you happen to see the many craters in the snow on your way down, that would be where my body and the ground met. My apologies if you happened to be one of those that fell into it that day.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/009.jpg" />
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<br />The hills at night. Night skiing lasts until midnight. Impressive use of floodlights.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/010.jpg" />
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<br />Obviously, it's less crowded during the nights, so it's an ideal time to try out that new three and a half somersault + back-flip routine that's been playing in your head for months.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/011.jpg" />
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<br />Although it may not seem apparent from the photo above, it actually snowed pretty hard the next day. I can't seem to capture any snowflakes on my digicam. Anyway, trust me - it was snowing.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/012.jpg" />
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<br />And yet the queue for the ski lifts doesn't cease.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/yong_pyong/013.jpg" />
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<br />I had set aside the last day to take the gondola (cable car) up to the peak of Mount Balwang. I was hoping to catch the supposedly great view from up there at Dragon Peak. It's too bad the weather was not permitting, and the gondola services were halted in view of the strong winds. You can't see Dragon Peak from down here. It's tucked away somewhere at the back of the immediate hills. Well, just my luck. Maybe next time.
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<br />Oh, and how could I not mention this. Yong Pyong is also where many of THAT popular TV series, Winter Sonata's scenes were shot. So it's no surprise to see Management capitalising on this with not-so-subtle hints and cut-up posters of the series' main stars strewn everywhere. If you're a fan of Winter Sonata, you'll feel right at home. You can all play a game of "remember this is where ..... " and "yes yes this is the spot where Bae Yong Jun kissed Choi Ji Woo" and so on .... needless to say, I'm not a fan.
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<br />All in all, it was a great start to the New Year. Hope you enjoyed the photos, even if they're not gastro-porn.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1105604714797657152005-01-14T22:24:00.000+09:002005-01-14T22:51:59.903+09:00Gamja TangMy first post of 2005. Happy New Year, everyone.
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<br />Today we're having gamja tang (감자탕), which means potato soup.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gamjatang/001.jpg" />
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<br />The place.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gamjatang/002.jpg" />
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<br />The meal
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gamjatang/003.jpg" />
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<br />... or what's left of it.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/gamjatang/004.jpg" />
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<br />Burp!
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1104397071724999862004-12-30T17:20:00.000+09:002004-12-30T17:57:51.723+09:00Happy New YearNo food blog today. Just a short, simple, and sincere post from the heart.
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<br />It saddens me to think that 2004 could end in such a tragic manner. The tsunami is an act of nature far beyond the control of us mere mortals. No one can tell what tomorrow may bring, so value life and live your life now. My heart goes out to the victims, their loved ones, and the many who are still missing. And to the selfless rescue and relief workers, volunteers and local residents, you have my admiration, if not the world's.
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<br />This blog has brought me many new friends, though "virtual" you are and faceless you may be, you're a part of my daily life now and I cherish that. I would like to wish each and every one of you, and yours, a Happy New Year and may 2005 bring you much happiness, prosperity, health and lots of good food.
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<br />Have yourself a Happy 2005!
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<br />Sincerely yours,
<br />FatMan Seoul
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1104128802389549932004-12-27T16:48:00.000+09:002004-12-28T13:46:47.416+09:00Galbi JjimTonight we're having galbi jjim (갈비찜), or beef ribs stew. I've been meaning to blog this ever since I started this blog, but never got the chance till now. Armed with my camera, I told myself I'd do it before year's end. So here it is.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/001.jpg" />
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<br />It's a wee bit quiet here tonight, probably because I'm early. It's about 6.00pm and a tad early for dinner by local standards.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/002.jpg" />
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<br />This is their menu. The signature dish here is evidently their galbi jjim.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/003.jpg" />
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<br />Let's get the side dishes (반찬 - ban chan) out of the way first. Here's blanched mustard greens with shredded carrots and onions, with a touch of sesame oil and soya sauce.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/004.jpg" />
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<br />This is pan-fried squash in egg batter. Pretty standard stuff.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/005.jpg" />
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<br />Boiled then chilled seaweed strips with vinegared chili sauce. The seaweed's a little gooey and has a "unique" (read slimey) taste if taken on its own, but when dipped in that sourish chili sauce it's pretty good.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/006.jpg" />
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<br />Everyone's favourite, the jab chae (mixed vegetables) - blanched spring onion leaves, carrot, onion, black mushroom, and lots of dang myeon ("glass" noodles made from sweet potato starch). The dang myeon is boiled in water that is mixed in with soya sauce, sesame oil, laver, onion, garlic, pepper, salt and sugar, to give it flavour and that darkened glossy finish.
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<br />Hand mix everything and season generously with soya sauce, sesame oil, salt and pepper. Very nice.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/007.jpg" />
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<br />Not authentically Korean, but this is typically served in most places here - shredded cabbage in ten hundred island dressing. For the mathematically impaired, ten hundred = thousand.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/008.jpg" />
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<br />This has to be in every meal, isn't it? Cabbage kimchi in fiery red flames.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/009.jpg" />
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<br />Here's what we came for - the galbi jjim - short ribs of beef which have been simmering for hours in this wonderful brown sauce. No we haven't been waiting here all these hours just for this meal. It's all pre-cooked, silly!
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<br />They just scoop the beef ribs from a larger pot, top it off with some straw mushrooms, button mushrooms, shitake mushrooms, large onions, carrots and green bell pepper (capsicum) and bring it the table as pictured above. The table-top stove continues cooking the vegetables for a couple more minutes and you're ready to have a go at it.
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<br />The portion pictured above is the smallest of the 3 available sizes - KRW20,000. Medium (3-4 pax) goes for KRW30,000 and large (4-5 pax) for KRW40,000.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/010.jpg" />
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<br />The sauce is a nice blend of I-don't-know-what-so-if-you-do-please-tell-me and is sweetish and just a slight hint of chili-heat. The Chef at this restaurant was not willing to part with his secret recipe, so here's my feeble attempt at trying to decipher what's what in this galbi jjim. The sauce has these elements - soya sauce, sugar, onion, garlic, ginger, black pepper, sesame oil, chili powder, rice wine, jujubes and Korean pear juice. The sweetness of the sauce is further contributed by the accompanying vegetables - carrots, capsicum and onions.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/galbi_jjim/011.jpg" />
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<br />All that hours of simmering infuses the delicious sauce deep into the beef, resulting in a soft, juicy, bursting with flavour meat that falls off the bone. The meat is cooked just right, not overcooked and tough. Yes the much-cliched "it melts in your mouth" applies here as well. The sauce goes great with steamed rice too.
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<br />This is one of those tourist-friendly dishes that I'd recommend to Korean-food virgins. It's a very nice break-in dish for newcomers to the cuisine, before moving on to the other tongue-numbing snort-inducing Korean favourites.
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102490557273703032004-12-10T14:15:00.000+09:002004-12-10T17:48:40.453+09:00NakjiToday we're having little octopus, or nakji (낙지).
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/001.jpg" />
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<br />These are the little nakjis resting peacefully in the tank. But not for long ..... (play Jaws theme here).
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<br />It's usually quite a full tank, but we're kinda late for dinner tonight. This restaurant specialises in all things nakji.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/002.jpg" />
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<br />Here's what we're having tonight.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/003.jpg" />
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<br />Straight from the tank onto the plate - in less than 8 minutes. Raw octopus (낙지회, nakji hwee) can either be eaten whole or sliced up. Obviously, my guests chose the latter - cowards!
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<br />The nakji arrives at the table all squirming and wriggling, very worm-like when you think about it. It's served with a healty dash of sesame oil and topped with roasted sesame seeds. Nothing else - no salt, no pepper, nada.
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<br />The fun bit is getting them onto your chopsticks and then into your mouth. These fellas will squirm and wriggle their way out of trouble. And the suction cups on their tentacles can be pretty strong, even as they slide down your throat! Hahaha ..... talk about your food fighting back.
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<br />Someone once told me that it's easier if you used wooden chopsticks instead of the metal ones, but I do fine with my metal chopsticks, so no problems there.
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<br />After 2 hours of soju-ing and chatting, you'd think that these fellas would all be goners by then. Nooooo ..... they sit idly on the plate when not provoked, but the moment you stick your sticks in there, they're up and wriggling again .... even after 2 hours!
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<br />Taste wise, my best description for it would be this - it's like eating soft plastic, chewy but not very tasty. I guess the novelty value runs low after several times. But for first timers, I'd say "you only live once, so go for it". It's one of those "been there done that" event.
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<br />I have a short video clip of these squirmy buggers. I'll put them up if you guys can tell me if there are any servers out there willing to host my short video for free. Else, just send me an e-mail request and I'll e-mail it to you. The video is approximately 32 seconds long and about 727kb in size. No biggie.
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<br />[ update - pieman over at <a href="http://noodlepie.typepad.com/">noodlepie</a> has graciously offered to host the video clip. So if you're interested, head on over <a href="http://noodlepie.typepad.com/blog/2004/12/fatman_goes_to_.html">here</a> and download the file. Thanks, pieman. ]
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<br />This plate of nakji hwee is a single portion, comprising of 2 nakjis, and cost KRW22,000.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/004.jpg" />
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<br />Next up is the less exciting but more delicious octopus casserole (낙지전골, nakji jeongol).
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<br />Usually, at these sort of nakji restaurants, you have a choice of two varieties of nakji - saeng (live) or naeng (refridgerated i.e. dead) - and prices differ drastically between the two. The live nakjis go for about KRW16,000 per person whereas the non-live ones go for about KRW8,000 per person. Just so you know.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/005.jpg" />
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<br />This is a three-person portion. It's loaded with sliced octopus, round cabbage, chinese cabbage, leek, tofu, straw mushrooms, bean sprouts, large onions, sliced radish, and topped with a healty heap of seasoned gochujang paste. Add the seafood stock and let it simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/saeng_nakji/006.jpg" />
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<br />This heat from this very spicy dish creeps up on you unsuspectingly. A couple of minutes into what starts off as a sedate dinner and you'll be reaching for that glass of cold water in no time. The gochu paste is mixed with a generous amount of sugar and sesame oil, so while it's spicy, it's also sweetish and fragrant all at the same time. Nice.
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1102491047629363972004-12-10T14:00:00.000+09:002004-12-10T14:15:41.220+09:00BMW - Big Money WheelsI saw these in the window of a BMW boutique in Apgujeong, Seoul. It's one thing to stick your logo onto the occasional t-shirts, key chains, coffee mugs and the likes. But this?
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/bmw_001.jpg" />
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<br />Anyone care to guess how much one of these wheelies cost?
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<br />On the bright side though, at least it's more eco-friendly than the Toyota Prius. :oP
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/bmw_002.jpg" />
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<br />A case of branding gone too far? Only in Apgujeong.
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<br />Sidenote - Apgujeong is often touted as the "Beverly Hills" of Korea, that section of Seoul for the haves to see and be seen. The shopping and eating in this neighbourhood reflect its affluence accordingly.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1100840544584872742004-12-07T17:52:00.000+09:002004-12-07T18:10:08.490+09:00Good Eats 2Continuing with our Good Eats series ......
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200411/kt2004111816455711700.htm">Kkangjang</a> at Kkangjang jip, Gwanghwamun behind the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts.
<br /><blockquote>
<br />Lining Up for 'Kkangjang' Stew Is Definitely Worth the Wait
<br />By Lee Yong-sung and Kim Hyun-cheol, Staff Reporters
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<br />The restaurant "Kkangjangjip", which opened back in 1986 as a tiny little Korean diner behind the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, has grown to become one of the most crowded places during lunch hour in the entire city.
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<br />"Kkangjang", the most popular dish here, is only 4,500 won, yet the restaurant's owner has been named as one of the most successful non-franchise restaurant owners in the country, including being listed in a recent book about highly successful eating places in Korea.
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<br />The restaurant has been a success over the last 18 years since its opening. During that time, the ownership was transferred from original owner Lim Pil-soon to her son, Lee Kwang-jin. However, one very crucial thing has not changed at the restaurant, which explains the secret of its steady success: the taste.
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<br />Kkangjang is a shortened word for "kangtoenjang", which basically is nothing more than a strong-flavored and unprocessed "toenjang", or soybean paste. However, as it is, "kkang toenjang" is too thick and salty, so it is mixed with processed toenjang and half an onion to add sweetness and lessen the original salty taste, which creates mouth-watering kkangjang.
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<br />Other key ingredients are finely diced pork and squid, garlic and hot pepper. One key point is to cook over a high flame for a short time, according to Lee.
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<br />Kkangjang is served with a bowl of rice and a larger bowl containing lettuce, bean sprouts and leeks. There are surely as many ways to eat kkangjang as there are customers at Kkangjangjip, but the most common way is to pour the rice into the bowl with the vegetables and mix it with the kkangjang, much like eating "pibimbap". Don't forget to try the restaurant's special "yolmu mulkimchi" (water kimchi made of young radish). Its cool, fresh taste goes well with kkangjang.
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<br />Besides kkangjang, "kkongchi ttukbaegi" (spicy saury stew, 4,500 won) is another popular item on the menu, especially during winter. Despite being a fish stew, customers shouldn’t be dissuaded from trying it since it lacks an off-putting, fishy odor that other soups often have.
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<br />For drinkers, various other side dishes are also available, including "toenjang possam" (boiled and sliced pork served with cabbage leaves to wrap into bundles, 15,000 won), "haemul pajon" (seafood pancake, 10,000 won) and "nakji bokum" (hot, stir-fried baby octopus, 14,000 won).
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<br />An additional bowl of rice is served at no extra charge for every menu item. After the meal, coffee and green tea are also available for free.
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<br /><img src="http://img28.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/kangjangjip_owner.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img28.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/kangjangjip_map.jpg" />
<br /></blockquote>
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200411/kt2004112516361911700.htm">Maeoon kalbijim</a> at Ondoljip, Seocho-Dong near Yangjae subway station.
<br /><blockquote>
<br />Extra-Hot Kalbijjim Will Take Your Tongue on an Adventure
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol, Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />As you may already know, hot and spicy is not really a taste so much as a sense of pain. But enthusiasts will also acknowledge it is addictive; the pain makes them happy. And South Korea may have far more of these "dens of pain" than many other places on the globe.
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<br />When devouring the dishes, customers don't really look happy with their faces dripping in sweat and tongues hanging out from the excessive heat. However, somehow they keep coming back, as if magnetized to those spicy restaurants. If this is you, you’re probably already hooked on the hot taste.
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<br />Those regularly on the prowl for new spiciness will already be familiar with the name "Ondoljip" (House with stone-heated floor), a restaurant specializing in hot food, located in Seocho-Dong, Southern Seoul. Just two years old, and the place has already got a name among those who crave that particular taste.
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<br />Upon entering you will see messages from satisfied customers decorating the walls, most of them proclaiming how much they enjoyed this "specially hot" moment. A good prelude to a gourmet's adventure.
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<br />But, don't expect a vast menu - there is only one item, maewoon kalbijjim (hot and spicy beef rib stew, 12,000 won). But you can have it in three ways - maewoon (hot), aju maewoon (very hot) and mujinjang maewoon (extremely hot).
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<br />Most customers have maewoon or aju maewoon kalbijjim. It might sound weird but Lee Choon-poong, the restaurant's owner, says he tries to stop customers from ordering the "mujinjang maewoon" unless they're regulars because according to Lee it is "the hottest dish in South Korea".
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<br />A bowl of rice with bean-sprout soup will be served first, along with some simple side dishes. But you better not complain both rice and soup are cold, unlike in almost all other places. You will soon be thankful when the main dish of kalbijjim arrives in a steel pot, half-cooked in the kitchen.
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<br />The pungent steam from the boiling pot will assail your nostrils and if you're a peppery-taste maniac you won’t be able to help jiggling in anticipation, even just from smelling the delicious stew.
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<br />It is highly recommended you just have "maewoon" style at first, because once you take your first spoonful the hot burning sensation will hit you full in the mouth. To lovers of the flavor it wouldn't be a mere exaggeration to call it "a moment of catharsis".
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<br />Then the next move is clear. You will have to stop right there, or find yourself guzzling it as if there's no tomorrow. But no one there seems to stop eating.
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<br />The owner Lee said the secret of the dish's sauce is to use abundant vegetables with quality peppers for a natural flavor and use less garlic so it doesn't get overwhelmingly stimulating.
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<br />"Many people visit this restaurant after hearing about it by word of mouth and I'm sure our dishes will satisfy them as long as they love the hot taste" Lee says.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/ondoljip_galbijim.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/ondoljip_map.jpg" />
<br /></blockquote>
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200412/kt2004120217240411720.htm">Pajeon</a> at Nagne Pajon, in the vicinity of Kyung Hee University and Hankook University of Foreign Studies, near Hoegi Subway Station.
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<br /><blockquote>
<br />Hoegi Subway Station Boasts the Best Pajon Restaurants Around
<br />By Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporter
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<br />Up until now, the most common translation for "pajon" in English has been Korean pancake. However, I you've ever been to any of the pajon restaurants clustered near Hoegi subway station in northeastern Seoul, you would have recognized almost immediately that the word choice was not right at all.
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<br />First of all, pajon served in the unique, more than 30 year old college town restaurant district is as large and thick as regular pizza (not typically thin Italian pizza, but closer to American pan pizza). What makes the translation most inappropriate though, is not its size alone.
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<br />Different from the pancakes most frequently found on North American breakfast tables, in a whole round piece of pajon, sea food like squid, shrimp and oyster, along with Welsh onion ("pa" in Korean) are abundantly used, all mixed together and then cooked in a frypan.
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<br />Then what should we call this unique Korean dish in English? Considering its size and the variety of ingredients, pizza seems to be the only candidate that barely comes close to pajon, but in fact, that’s basically all they have in common. So why can't we just call pajon "pajon" in English? As it is, in every way a uniquely Korean dish, like kimchi.
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<br />Among some ten pajon restaurants near the subway station, the oldest is "Nagne (meaning wanderer in Korean) Pajon". Opened 34 years ago, the diner has made special moments of poor college students even more special, with big, extraordinarily cheap and delicious seafood pajon.
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<br />Pleasing the taste buds of students from nearby Kyung Hee University and Hankook University of Foreign Studies, the Nagne Pajon now has three more branch restaurants near Hanyang and Korea University respectively, and two overseas branches in China. "Those who customized our restaurant 20 years ago as students now bring their children," Kong Kyung-ja, the owner of the diner said to The Korea Times. Opening the store right after her late husband’s company went out of business, Kong offers a pan of pajon a thousand won cheaper (6,000 won) at the main store, in appreciation of those loyal customers.
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<br />One of the key ingredients in its long-loved pajon is egg. Once cooked, the mixture of seafood, ground pork and Welsh onion is refried, covered with beaten egg. The use of egg not only adds extra nutritional value to the pajon, but also pleasant crispness to the texture.
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<br />Besides the all-time popular regular seafood pajon, "oyster pajon (10,000 won)" and "tonggurang ttaeng (small Korean meatball dish, 6,000 won)" are also recommended. A regular pan of pajon is big enough for three hungry mouths at dinnertime. So don't order too much just because it's cheap! One last thought: Pajon is excellent accompanied by makgoli (traditional Korean rice wine, 4,000 won/bottle). Have a good time!
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/nagne_pajon.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats_2/nagne_map.jpg" />
<br /></blockquote>FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1101456651736865272004-12-01T16:09:00.000+09:002004-12-01T16:41:39.016+09:00Samkak KimbabSamkak kimbab (삼각김밥) are triangular kimbabs typically found in convenience stores all across Korea. They make for an excellent quick snack.
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<br />Samkak kimbabs are a variation of the standard cyclindrical-shaped kimbabs (see earlier posts <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/kim-bap.html">here</a> and <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/05/gochu-kimbap.html">here</a>). Interestingly, I've noticed that samkak kimbabs can only be had at convenience stores. The kimbab stores don't do triangles - so don't even bother asking for it - yeah I received a bevy of bewildered stares that day.
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<br />On a side note, a recent <a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/biz/200411/kt2004112215033211900.htm">article</a> in the Korea Times reported that there are approximately 8,100 convenience stores in South Korea. That's a whole lot of convenience.
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<br />There's plenty of fillings to choose from - chicken, beef, pork, tuna, squid, vegetarian and so on; and cater for most tastebuds - spicy, mild & non-spicy.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/001.jpg" />
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<br />Each samkak kimbab is about the size of a fist.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/002.jpg" />
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<br />This is the spicy tuna kimbab. KRW600.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/003.jpg" />
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<br />This is the spicy chicken kimbab. KRW700.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/004.jpg" />
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<br />Comes complete with instructions to unwrap. So that's what those sequentially-numbered arrows on the wrapper are for.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/005.jpg" />
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<br />After much deciphering, I managed to figure it all out - 1, 2 and finally 3.
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<br />This takes the prize insofar as wrappers goes. The plastic is a complex fold of 2 layers, neatly separating the dry crisp seaweed from the moisture of the rice, so the laver (or seaweed as I prefer to call it) never touches the rice until you pull the wrapper apart. Even when you do, it doesn't unravel the seaweed wrap. Ingenious!
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<br />P/S : I've had other samkak kimbabs where the seaweed is in a separate plastic wrap, so you basically tear 2 wrappers - one for the rice roll and the other for the seaweed - and then assemble both yourself. The one above is so much better - it saves me 27 seconds.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/006.jpg" />
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<br />The samkak kimbab unwrapped - and feeling somewhat embarrassed.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/007.jpg" />
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<br />This is the spicy chicken. The chili does a splendid job at being spicy - just the right zing without being overpowering. There is also a touch of sweetness to the sauce (just sugar - nothing fancy) that takes some heat away. Chicken? More like minced crumbs of "chicken", but then again, you get what you pay for.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/008.jpg" />
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<br />This is the spicy tuna. Tastewise, it's similar to the above.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/samkak/009.jpg" />
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<br />Most samkak kimbabs go for about KRW500-KRW700 each, and on a good day, you may find between 6-10 varieties of these in any convenience store. You can eat them cold or pop them into the microwave oven for a few seconds. There's always a microwave oven at the convenience store if you need to.
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1101280712289463402004-11-25T18:15:00.000+09:002004-11-25T18:25:58.910+09:00MunjeongI have absolutely NO fashion sense. To me, being fashionable means wearing matching colored socks to work. I would thus make an ideal candidate for the Queer Eyes' Fab 4. Notwithstanding that, my warped fashion sense shouldn't deprive you lovely readers of sharing in on my recent shopping trip.
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<br />So, if you're into shopping, then read on. If you're not, read on anyway since you're probably slacking in the office to begin with, otherwise you wouldn't be here surfing from your work-place.
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<br />Previous posts on shopping in Myeong-dong <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/myeong-dong.html">here</a>, Dongdaemun <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/05/dongdaemun-1.html">here</a> and <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/05/dongdaemun-2.html">here</a>, COEX Mall <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/coex-mall.html">here</a> and Itaewon <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/06/itaewon.html">here</a>, just in case anyone missed it. Yeah, shameless plug I know.
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<br />However, this time around, let's ditch the well trotted path of the tourists and discover some local gems that even locals hesitate to share. Specifically, we're searching for designer-labels or branded goods at discounted prices. Yea, it's sinful ain't it? So if you're into upmarket goods, yet still want to save a buck or two, then I have just the place for you.
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<br />Ori and Munjeong are 2 locales on the outskirt of Seoul that prides itself as "factory outlet" shopping havens. They're both within the boundaries of Gyeonggi Province, and easily accessible by subway. Factory outlet shopping, if you asked the uninitiated like myself, means bypassing the retailers in the distribution chain and selling direct to end consumers. So in theory at least, you'd be getting the same retail goods at lower prices, and with some luck, at deep discounts. If not for these places, then designer labels and branded goods can only be had at those nose-in-the-air establishments such as the likes of Lotte, Galleria, Samsung & Hyundai Departmental Stores.
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<br />Here are some random shots of Munjeong, taken around 6.00 p.m. last week.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/001.jpg" />
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<br />The main street of the Munjeong shopping area, aptly named Rodeo Drive.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/002.jpg" />
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<br />This is a side lane off the main street. It's a pretty long stretch choked with stores on either sides.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/003.jpg" />
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<br />If the store ain't big enough, just lay it out on the sidewalk.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/004.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/005.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/006.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/007.jpg" />
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<br />Dump?
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/010.jpg" />
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<br />Hazzys is a popular home-grown brand in Korea owned by the LG Group. The other local brand that's pretty popular (at least to my knowledge) is Bean Pole which is owned by Cheil Industries.
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<br />The wonders of advertisement and target-marketing.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/009.jpg" />
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<br />The unmistakeable swoosh. Next door is Saville Row wanna-be LG with their own brand of gentlemen suits.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/008.jpg" />
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<br />Munjeong is pretty unknown to the tourist fraternity, and I believe the locals want to keep it that way. In the course of my leisurely stroll here, I noticed that locals actually DO buy stuff, they're not just window shopping. So to me at least, that is adequate testimony to the validity of Munjeong.
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<br />Although somewhat different from <a href="http://www.barstowchamber.com/visitors/">Barstow</a>, where I lost my factory outlet shopping virginity enroute to Las Vegas, Munjeong does offer some decent choices at fairly discounted prices. Some of these outlets offered discounts of 40%-80% off the rack price, but even after the discounts, they're too rich for my blood. I'll stick to buying my stuff at Carrefour and Wal-Mart.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/011.jpg" />
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<br />What we have here is a lady selling pul bbang (풀빵), a snack of sweetened mashed red beans filling.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/012.jpg" />
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<br />Pul bbang is very similar to <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/street-food-3.html">bungeo bbang (carp-shaped cake)</a>.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/munjeong/013.jpg" />
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<br />Here's a lady selling <a href="http://fatman-seoul.blogspot.com/2004/03/street-food-3.html">hoteok (호떡)</a>.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1100843283836567402004-11-19T14:03:00.000+09:002004-11-19T22:54:53.283+09:00Frosty the FatManIt's that time of the year again - time to hit the slopes. Dust off your skis and snowboards and head on down to the winter wonderlands.
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<br />Here's a <a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200411/kt2004111816422011690.htm">concise guide</a> to what's available around Seoul. I'll see you guys at Yong Pyong - just look out for a fat man bouncing down the hills screaming "aaaaaaaaaarrgghhh".
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1099023204854082922004-11-12T13:06:00.000+09:002004-11-24T16:14:46.116+09:00Good EatsI'll be honest. FatMan Seoul is going through a dry spell. The blog I mean, not the man. The man's as wet as ever.
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<br />Lately, I haven't been very excited by many of my foodie adventures. Pretty much same old same old - there's only so much dosirak a blog can take. Hence the lack of food posts of late.
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<br />The ones that did excite me and worthy of blogging, didn't make it to the blog. They were either formal lunches and dinners or because they were in settings not appropriate to poke my digicam into the food. So you guys have missed out on some rather interesting seafood such as live octopus, monggeh and other unmentionable creepy wriggling stuff. Not to worry, I'm sure I'll get the chance to blog it for you guys one of these days.
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<br />That said, I thought I'd start blogging, not personal recommendations mind you, but rather leads that I've read about or sent in by readers - just to share with you guys. Who knows? Maybe some of you living in Seoul MAY actually find it useful. Goodness knows this blog has been utterly useless thus far.
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<br />Legalish gibberish out of the way first - I'm reproducing The Korea Times articles on the blog itself as Korea Times will archive older materials, and the links below may no longer work in time to come. Pasting them here should preserve it for latecomers to the blog. All credits to The Korea Times and their reporters.
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200410/kt2004102817213511700.htm">Red bean juk</a> at The Second Best Place in Seoul (Seouleso Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip), Samchongdong-kil (Samchongdong Road), near Kyongbok Palace.
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<br /><blockquote>Autumn Delight: Try Red Bean Soup at Seoul's 2nd Best Place
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol, Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />Autumn is a season many South Koreans are proud of. Leaves change color and prepare to shed for the upcoming winter.
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<br />With weather like this, it is no wonder Seoul has some really nice promenades like Samchongdongkil (Samchongdong Road). It is a small but long stretching road that begins at the corner of Kyongbok Palace and runs through Samchong Tunnel, leading to northern part of the city.
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<br />Strolling along the path and enjoying the flurry of yellow gingko leaves, you may miss a small teahouse with the sign “Seouleso Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip” (The Second Best Place in Seoul) among the many fancy restaurants and cafes lining both sides of the road. But once you spot the place, curiosity about the mysterious name may urge you to explore what’s inside.
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<br />“I find the word “second best” charming,” owner Kim Eun-sook, 65, said. She can often be seen cooking through an open window that faces the street. “So many people argue that they are the best and it’s not fun. Second best sounds more unique to me and it also inspires me to always try to do better.”
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<br />Although it is called “second best,” do not underestimate this place. Since opening in 1976, the small oriental teahouse has been serving select oriental herb teas that are popular when the weather starts to get cold.
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<br />The old-fashioned but cozy interior soothes visitors and the aroma of oriental herbs linger in the narrow hall usually packed with people eating or waiting for their takeout orders.
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<br />The majority are here for one thing, especially at this time of year. What they are after is a small bowl of red bean soup (5,000 won).
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<br />Red bean soup is a traditional dish in Korea and China and is believed to ward off evil spirits and ghosts with its red color. The version served here; however, is one similar to a sweet Japanese-style dessert. Owner Kim says she added it to the menu to remind her of her childhood.
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<br />The soup is composed of peeled red beans and has a light but sweet taste. It is quite different from the typical overly sweet Western dessert. Seasonal nuts such as gingko nuts and chestnuts along with a dash of cinnamon are used as toppings. A huge chunk of rice cake is hidden in the soup and tastes wonderful, as it is covered in the sweet soup.
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<br />“I try not to change the interior of the cafe or the flavor of my dishes and as long as I run the place things will stay the same,” Kim said. “That’s also what my regular customers want. I think they want their favorite places to remain unchanged since they themselves have to change to adapt to the fast pace of life.”
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/secondbest_owner.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/secondbest_soup.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/secondbest_map.jpg" />
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200410/kt2004101416364511700.htm">Kongnamul kukbap</a> at Koryo Sikdang, Sodaemun, near the Seoul Metropolitan Office of Education and Kangbuk Samsung Medical Center.
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<br /><blockquote>'Kongnamul Kukbap' Perfect Hangover Remedy
<br />By Lee Yong-sung and Kim Hyun-cheol, Staff Reporters
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<br />Upon hearing its name, people might wonder if the restaurant, Koryo Sikdang is in North Korea, since the name is rarely found among the names of diners here, sounding a little outdated and even rustic.
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<br />But trust us. You cannot judge a restaurant by its name, as much as you can’t judge a book by its cover. In fact, Sodaemun, where the 21-year-old restaurant is located, is one of the busiest business districts of Seoul, where five of the major newspaper companies and a few of the nations’ leading corporations have their headquarters.
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<br />Densely packed with office workers who often binge drink until midnight, or even through the next morning, the soup is perfect to calm down one’s stomach after a long, heavy drinking session. Koryo Sikdang, located on the way to Seoul Metropolitan Office of Education from Kangbuk Samsung Medical Center, has well served the need since it was opened in 1983, with premium quality kongnamul kukbap (rice with bean sprout soup).
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<br />A first time visitor might be wide-eyed, realizing there is much more than just bean sprouts in the soup costing only 4,000 won. Dried pollack is used to make the rich broth, while plenty of small shrimps, bajirak (a kind of small clam) and an egg are also added, deepening the flavor, as well as increasing its nutritional value.
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<br />When it comes to kongnamul kukbap, what usually comes to people’s minds is Chonju, North Cholla Province. The area is famous for the soup in which rice is served in it from the beginning, with kimchi and changjorim (marinated and stewed beef). However, few know that the modern, metropolitan city of Seoul has its own distinct food traditions like the one presented by Koryo Sikdang’s kongnamul kukbap.
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<br />Open all year around from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., the kukbap of course is not the only dish available at the restaurant.
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<br />Pulnak kongnamul (rice with seasoned pork and small octopus, 5,000 won) has been the two most popular dishes from the time of Koryo Hospital, 21 years ago, where the Samsung Medical Center is now. Besides the two, ttukbaegi pulgogi (steamed beef, 5,000 won) and Tolsot Pibimbap (steamed rice mixed with vegetables and meat, 4,000 won) are equally recommended.
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<br />"Like in any other food businesses," Kim Young-ja, 55, the restaurant’s owner told The Korea Times. "Freshness of ingredients is the key. We never use anything older than a day". Among the loyal customers of the dinner are popular television actor Im Hyun-sik and news reporters and even CEOs.
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<br />"The soup is refreshing and also tastes good. I bet every one will like it, especially after drinking," Jeon Hyun-ju, an employee of nearby publisher Darakwon said.
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<br />Tel: 02)739-5293, 5166
<br />Parking: Unavailable
<br />Credit Card: Available
<br />Opens every day from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/koryo_crowd.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/koryo_kukbap.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/koryo_map.jpg" />
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<br /><a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200411/kt2004111116500811720.htm">Taiwanese food</a> at Hyangmi, Yonnam-dong, near Hongik University.
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<br /><blockquote>
<br />Try Taiwanese Flavor at 'Hyangmi'
<br />By Kim Hyun-cheol, Lee Yong-sung, Staff Reporters
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<br />The fate of the Chinese community in South Korea, most of whose members are from Taiwan, not mainland China, went together with the relationship between Korea and Taiwan when South Korea broke off diplomatic relations with Taiwan in 1992.
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<br />Once thriving with many businesses around Myungdong, where the Taiwanese Embassy located, the community is just visible in another area of Seoul where some Chinese schools are available.
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<br />Along the road across from the Yonnamdong area, between Hongik University and Yonsei University, stand several Chinese restaurants. But you can’t expect the same kind of dishes to be served in those as in other typical Chinese restaurants in Korea. Dishes such as Chajangmyon (mixed noodles with Chinese bean-paste sauce) and Chambbong (spicy seafood noodles) are simply not on the menu.
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<br />Run by Hwakyo, or Chinese people living in South Korea, usually in the form of a family business, they serve dishes more similar to the authentic Chinese style and the same applies to Hyangmi, one of the "real" Chinese restaurants in the area. The place is well known for its Taiwanese-leaning menu.
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<br />Hyangmi, which means "flavor of homeland," serves various kinds of Chinese dishes attracting both Chinese and Korean customers and most dishes here are served in two sizes, large and small to help vary the choices for customers. Some authentic Taiwanese dishes like Paigufan (Taiwanese style pork cutlet on rice, 5,000 won), which are hard to find in other places, are also available here.
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<br />The most loved on the menu are, no doubt, jumbo-sized baozi (dumpling, or mandu in Korean, 5,000 won) and the peculiar Taiwanese dish of niuroumian (beef soup noodle, 6,000 won for small and 8,000 won for a large serving).
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<br />Once the plate full of baozi, formed in Shandong style after the shape of traditional Chinese foot binding, is placed on the table, you can’t help being surprised by the gigantic size of the dumpling.
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<br />Five pieces make one serving but for most normal eaters, it will take a bit of work to finish them off because they are all just a little bigger than an adult man’s fist. Splitting one in half, you will see stuffing made of a variety of ingredients including a couple of different mushrooms, pork, vegetables and fried bean curd.
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<br />"A total of 10 things are there," Chao Lienyi, 63, owner of the restaurant, said. "I started the menu because I wanted to try something not common to others."
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<br />Niuroumian, one of the more typical dishes back in Taiwan, has the unique flavor of Chinese dishes that comes from a stock seasoned with Oriental spices like wuxiang (ohhyang, five assorted spices). The dish is a favorite among many Koreans because of its fresh and chewy noodles and clean aftertaste from a long-boiled beef stock.
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<br />Among other dishes, "Chicken cooked with wuxiang" (8,000 won for the small serving and 15,000 won for large) is another preferred one. The deep-fried, steamed and chilled chicken pieces, marinated in a special sauce with spices and garlic, makes a great compliment to Chinese liquors. Watch out for the generous sprinkling of coriander topped on the dish if you are not lover of this herb, which is not too popular among South Koreans.
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<br />"Taiwanese dishes are characterized by unique and impressive fragrance and relish from lots of spices, but we try to balance the amount of spices used in our dishes to satisfy both Chinese and Korean customers," Chao said.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/hyangmi_baozi.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/hyangmi_niuromien.jpg" />
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/good_eats/hyangmi_map.jpg" />
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<br /><a href="http://www.sanchon.com/">Buddhist-temple vegetarian</a> at Sanchon Vegetarian Restaurant, Insa-dong.
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<br />Their website provides extensive information, so it's pointless to regurgitate it here. The site also accepts reservation (required) and provides direction to the place. Map reproduced here for easy reference:
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/sanchon/sanchon_map.gif" />
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<br />Sanchon Vegetarian Restaurant was recommended by long-time reader Willow (wonder if she's still reading the blog) and offers a 17-course vegetarian lunch and dinner.
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<br />Bear in mind I've not tried any of the above, YET, but rest assured if and when I do, they'll find their way onto this blog. It'll be light blogging here for the next few weeks. Till next time, happy eating.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1099037951067894652004-11-08T17:18:00.000+09:002004-11-12T15:16:00.006+09:00Noryangjin Fish MarketTucked in the shadow of <a href="http://www.63.co.kr/english/index.html">63 Building</a>, South Korea's tallest, is the Noryangjin Fish Market (<a href="http://susansijang.co.kr/">노량진수산시장</a>). Come join me as we get down and dirty today.
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<br />(Update - reader "Dong" rightfully pointed out that 63 Building is NOT Korea's tallest. This bragging right belongs to <a href="http://www.towerpalace.co.kr">Samsung's Tower Palace 3 (Tower G))</a>.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/01.jpg" />
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<br />As you get off the subway at Noryangjin Station, you undeniably know you're at the right place. I smell something fishy here, and it ain't my breakfast.
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<br />Step out of the station and you're greeted with this long overhead pedestrian bridge, which leads you across the railway and subway lines before you find yourself at the roof carpark of the Fish Market.
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<br />As you can see from the photo above, the Fish Market is located just a stone's throw away from 63 Building - ok you have to throw the stone pretty far to reach it, I admit. To the left of 63 Building is the Kumho Richensia Towers, all of which are located in Yeouido-dong, the little patch of "island" along the Han River.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/02.jpg" />
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<br />As you take the stairs leading down from the rooftop carpark to the market proper, this is your first glimpse of the market.
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<br />Noryangjin Fish Market is technically a seafood market, so you don't just get fish here, for clarity's sake. It is also a wholesale auction market, and the bulk of seafood into Seoul and the surrounding regions is routed through here. The auction is conducted between 0100-0630 in the wee hours of the morning, and the very same seafood will find its way to restaurants all over in time for their day's business. The retail market takes off where the auction ends and business is conducted until the late hours of evening.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/03.jpg" />
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<br />The market has a total floor space of over 6,000 square meters and sees over 15,000 customers every day - not that I counted. Moving on before they stare me to death ....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/04.jpg" />
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<br />Here's a sampling of the variety of seafood that's available here.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/05.jpg" />
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<br />Octopus (문어), still wriggling with freshness.
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<br />Here's a quick game you can play at home with the family - can you find the one with 9 tentacles?
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/06.jpg" />
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<br />The king crabs (깅크랩) are from Russia whilst the hairy crabs (털게) and snow crabs (대게) are from North Korea. The flower crabs (꽃게) are local and the most common.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/07.jpg" />
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<br />More pics of crabs ....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/08.jpg" />
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<br />crabs ....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/09.jpg" />
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<br />and more crabs.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/10.jpg" />
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<br />A variety of seafood - some familiar, some not at all - prawns (새우), abalone (전복), clams (조개), oysters (굴), sea snails (소라) and sea cucumber (해삼) are some of the familiar ones.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/11.jpg" />
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<br />These are the more interesting bits.
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<br />Small octopus (낙지) is a popular delicacy here and eaten cooked or raw. If eaten raw, it is eaten whole or sliced up, its tentacles still wriggling as it goes into your mouth. I have tried it several times, and the suction action is interesting to say the least. Talk about your food fighting back!
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<br />The pinkish worm-like sea slugs are gaebul (개불). The bright red ones are known as monggae (멍개) - they're like seafood with a severe attack of acne. Both of these are usually eaten raw and served in sushi restaurants.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/12.jpg" />
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<br />And of course, live fishes are in abundance here. You point at the fish of your choice and the seller weighs it and informs you of the price. Haggling is encouraged, but only to the point when the fishmonger starts pointing his knife at you. Once you're satisfied, pay up and you can take the fish home with you, whole or gutted and cleaned.
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<br />The popular choice from my observation is to have them prep it up for you as hwee (회), i.e. sashimi complete with a disposable plate. See the guy sitting by the wooden slicing board? That's the hwee master carver.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/noryangjin/13.jpg" />
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<br />Here's another interesting bit. On the floor above the Fish Market, you'll find 8 seafood (seafood - what'd you expect?) restaurants - yes I counted. This is the same floor from which you'd come into the market from the subway station - second photo above.
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<br />These restaurants "specialise" in hwee (회) raw fish, steamed crabs and other seafood-based dishes and soups. I say "specialise" with a grain of salt as they don't actually do any of the hwee bit. You actually buy your hwee from the market and bring it upstairs or have it delivered upstairs to consume. The restaurants will provide the side dishes, liquor and prepare hot soup from the carcass of the recently deboned fish - you just pay the restaurant a standard flat rate per head.
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<br />Of course, if you don't want the hassle of doing it yourself, you can just order at the restaurants and the ladies will yell your order downstairs and it'll be on your table in a couple of minutes - as depicted in the photo above. How much fresher can your seafood get?
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<br />I can't share any dining experience at the restaurants here, as I left the Fish Market without eating. Here's an <a href="http://kn.koreaherald.co.kr/SITE/data/html_dir/2004/02/07/200402070039.asp">interesting article</a> I dug up from the internet on eating at one of these restaurants. Enjoy!
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<br />Do correct me if I've made any mistakes in this post, resident experts.
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1097809650896591232004-11-04T11:06:00.000+09:002004-11-04T11:38:19.830+09:00Jujube Tea & Ginger TeaKoreans are rather fond of something called the Citrus Tea or Citron Tea, more so the women than the men from my observation. Perhaps it has something to do with slimming, I dunno. The word slimming is muted from my vocabulary. Whilst I'm not covering citron tea today, while shopping at that section of the local supermarket, I came across this and decided to give it a whirl.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/jujube_tea/01.jpg" />
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<br />Honey Jujube Tea. KRW6,500 for this jar of Pooh juice.
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<br />For those unaccustomed to jujube, they're also called red dates, chinese jujube or chinese dates. More info on jujubes <a href="http://www.davewilson.com/br40/br40_fruit_trees/br40Jujubes.html">here</a> and <a href="http://www.foodsnherbs.com/new_page_47.htm">here</a> if you're interested.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/jujube_tea/02.jpg" />
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<br />Here's another (albeit finished) jar of Jujube Tea from a different make. KRW6,350.
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<br />Jujubes, or red dates, are in essence a fruit and thus can be eaten on their own. They can also be used in a variety of ways to enhance flavour or impart remedial properties. I've had them floating around in soups, deserts, medicinal concoctions, stuffed in chicken, duck, laced in rice dishes etc. They add natural sweetness and a pleasant "feel-good" aroma to everything.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/jujube_tea/03.jpg" />
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<br />Jujubes on their own are already sweet. But when combined with honey, well, diabetics beware.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/jujube_tea/04.jpg" />
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<br />Mix with hot water to dissolve the honey and you get a very aromatic cup of jujube tea. Very nice, indeed. Add ice or stick it in the fridge if you want it cold.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/jujube_tea/ginger_tea.jpg">
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<br />For those who are susceptible to excessive gas by-production of the intestinal tract leading to internal combustion, popularly referred to as farting, ginger is a great remedy for the bloated. So they came up with something similar, except substitute jujubes for ginger. Spicy (from the ginger) and sweet (from the honey) cuppa "tea". KRW6,400 per jar of fart-diffusing tea.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1099285136123398892004-11-01T13:40:00.000+09:002004-11-01T14:19:53.623+09:00Shawn's Korea Life BlogWhile some of you may already be familiar with Shawn Matthews' <a href="http://korealife.blogspot.com/">Korea Life Blog</a>, his announced (possible) retirement from blogging must come as a surprise to most. After all, it isn't April 1, a prank he pulled on April's Fool this year.
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<br />This time, he's seriously contemplating hanging up his keyboard - he cites his reasons on the blog. Should this crystalise, the Korean blogosphere will miss him dearly. However, I respect his decision and from one blogger to another, I understands his reasons.
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<br />Cheers mate and remember, stay HAPPY always. Peace.
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1097117771920221382004-10-29T17:20:00.000+09:002004-10-29T17:33:30.723+09:00Seoul - 11th Most Expensive CityAn article in the Korea Times some days back reported that Seoul is the 11th most expensive city in terms of travel cost.
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<br />Here is the link to the <a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/200410/kt2004100514514510440.htm">Korea Times article</a>. Should this link expire (which it eventually will, no doubt), here's a <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/KoreaTimes.jpg">screenshot of said article</a> preserved in FatMan's vault.
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<br />Quote from article - "<em>Three meals in Seoul cost $131.94, the 15th most expensive in the world.</em>" (US$ one would assume)
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<br />Hmmmm ..... readers here would know that a decent meal can be had for an average cost of USD5.00 - USD10.00, and if you want to splurge, yea maybe even USD20.00. So my attention was directed to this paragraph ... "<em>the report (is) based on materials from Business Travel News, a U.S. travel newspaper</em>". Ahhh ... that explains it. US businessmen travelling to Seoul either got very badly ripped-off OR ate at fancy hotel establishments OR abused their corporate credit cards. Sure, I've been guilty of the latter on rare occasions, but surely the Korea National Tourism Organization (KNTO) is not helping to clarify this, which is sure to scare off any potential inbound tourists.
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<br />So FatMan says, NO it won't cost you USD131.94 for 3 meals in Seoul, not unless you eat really really fancy. So welcome to Kimchi-land .... cheers!
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<br />While we're on this subject, here's <a href="http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/200406/kt2004061315544210160.htm">another article in Korea Times</a> circa June 2004 which ranked Seoul as the 7th most expensive city in a Cost Of Living survey conducted by Mercer Human Resource Consulting.
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<br />Yea I know ... it feels like this ....
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/smallbaby.gif" />
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<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1097809848886755552004-10-26T17:00:00.000+09:002004-10-26T17:11:39.960+09:00Wedding - Part 2 of 2Sorry for the long wait guys. Been busy practising for the Burnout 3 : Takedown Online World Championship ......
<br />Now on with Part 2. (on second reading - only console gamers will probably get that last bit)
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/15.jpg" />
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<br />Here's the meal voucher I introduced in Part 1, aptly titled "A Meal Ticket". You usually get one of these when you hand over your cash gift at the desk. The cash is tucked inside a plain envelope with a simple congratulatory message (e.g. "You've Been Taken Down" (another veiled reference to Burnout 3 if you don't get it)) and your name; just for the record they usually say but more likely used when the matrimonial couple compare notes during the loot count.
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<br />If you're part of a group contribution, get your meal voucher from the point man in your group. Everybody remember now, no ticket no food!
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/16.jpg" />
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<br />Ahh ... the admission ticket gets you into the dining hall, the one true reason we're all here today. This is a typical dining hall in a Wedding Hall type wedding. Ssshhh!! Bite your tongue - this isn't an office cafetaria!!
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<br />The food and drinks are all decked out on the table as guests stroll in after getting past the tight security check and guard dogs.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/17.jpg" />
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<br />There is no guest allocation system or assigned seating. Basically, you walk in, sit at a table and once the headcount hits 8 (or whatever the maximum seats per table), you move on to the next table. So, the bigger your congregation, the stronger your bargaining power at demanding adjoining tables from the warden.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/18.jpg" />
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<br />An assortment of errr ..... food.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/19.jpg" />
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<br />The orange bits are called prawns. They're boiled and served. The white bits are deformed baby octopus. They're also boiled before serving.
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<br />I think this dish has some kinda symbolic meaning to it, like the ying-yang of life, or longevity & prosperity, or maybe it's just food. Darn .... those Korean cultural classes I took were a waste of money then, weren't they?
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/20.jpg" />
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<br />Pieces of egg-battered fried stuff - (left to right) minced pork patties, crabstick-spam-leek kebabs and sliced cucumber. The best-when-cold principle doesn't apply here, but someone forgot to tell them that.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/21.jpg" />
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<br />Deep-fried chicken nuggets. The oil-drenched paper napkin somehow just doesn't quite fit right. Maybe it's just me.
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<br />Hey you-stranger-sitting-beside-me!! That's MY piece.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/22.jpg" />
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<br />Mung-bean jelly, or cheongpo muk, are sliced into strips and served with a shake of black sesame seeds.
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<br />Muk, or jelly, is a popular Korean item. They're not sweet desert jelly that many of you may be familiar with. Depending on the source ingredient used, there are several varieties of muk readily found all over Korea. Most common are the above, buckwheat jelly (memil muk) and acorn jelly (dotori muk). They are served plain as side dishes or mixed with other savoury ingredients such as meat, veges and sauces to form complete meals on their own.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/23.jpg" />
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<br />This is a Korean staple - rice cakes, or tteok. Tteoks are customarily served at weddings and other significant occasions (e.g. newborn's birthday, the day I complete Burnout 3, oh did I mention weddings).
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<br />There are many many kinds of tteok, some 300+ if I recall, in all shapes, colours, texture & taste. Read all about tteok <a href="http://www.knto.or.kr/eng/hallyu/tteok.html">here</a>.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/24.jpg" />
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<br />This is sinseollo, or hot-pot, which sits proudly in the middle of the table for all to share. Thin beef slices, mushrooms, spring onions in a sweet brown bulgogi sauce.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/25.jpg" />
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<br />Each person at the table gets one of these - kalbi tang, or beef rib soup, and a bowl of rice. The soup comes piping hot, and is rich in beefy flavours. It is a clear soup, but must have been boiled for many many hours to extract that kind of flavours from the bones.
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<br />In case you're wondering, I have no idea why the silver bowls are so gigantic. You can fit your entire face into it. I know - I have the stretch marks to prove it. Some people combine the bowl of rice into the soup bowl and eat it out of one large bowl, while others keep them separate and shuttle between the 2 bowls.
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<br />So let's face it. A food-fest it is not. If you want this, just head on over to Seoul Grand Hyatt Hotel's buffet restaurant. Unlike most other wedding rituals around the world, where food, alcohol, music, dancing, games and even plate-throwing are all climax to the day's event, it's quite different here in Korea, or at least from the few that I've been privileged to be invited to. It can appear somewhat cold and stiff. If I'm wrong on this point, do let me know.
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<br />OK, so a food fest it is not. But hey, you're here for the wedding, to share in the couple's happy day, to partake in the festivities, to catch up with old friends and relatives whom you haven't seen since the groom's last wedding, to redistribute the national income, to get all dressed up instead of walking naked at home. It's not all about the food, come on.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1097809756442042852004-10-19T15:07:00.000+09:002004-10-19T16:48:40.943+09:00Wedding - Part 1 of 2Event : Wedding
<br />Date : Last weekend
<br />Venue : Seoul
<br />Purpose : A glimpse of a typical modern Korean wedding.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/01.jpg">
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<br />Typical "wedding hall" building (tallest building in the photo). First impressions for some of you may be "hmmm ... a pretty bland building, looks just like any ordinary office building". Second impression would be "yes, absolutely right".
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/02.jpg">
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<br />Entrance to the Wedding Hall. As the sign says, we're at the White House Wedding Hall. I wonder if Ms. Lewinsky's working here?
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/03.jpg">
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<br />The building houses 9 floors of the same as the one we'll be exploring today. That means 9 weddings simultaneously every hour, 10 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year, 10 years a decade, 10 decades a century ... I digress.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/04.jpg">
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<br />This is the floor where our action is for the day. Don't ask me who those guys loitering upstairs are. They belong to a different faction.
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<br />This is the main entrance to the wedding hall. Lots of guests milling outside, reluctant to go inside. Face reality, folks, it's too late to back out now.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/05.jpg">
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<br />To the left of the main entrance is the <s>extortion</s> <s>donation</s> gift collection desk - one for Team A (bridegroom) and the other for Team B (bride). This is where guests line up to part with their gifts, commonly cash, though I've seen credit cards accepted and even a live cow once. Speaking of in-laws, they're somewhere in the hall. It is also at these desks that they hand out the meal vouchers. More on that later. For now, that means no gift no meal voucher.
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<br />Typically, expect to <s>pay</s> contribute anywhere between KRW20,000 to KRW100,000, depending on your status, wallet size and face value. If the couple is employed in an organisation, someone in the office will come round to collect $ from you days before the wedding and present it as a <s>labour union</s> group. You can thus expect the cash drawers to be well guarded and in the hands of only the most trusted of family members.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/06.jpg">
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<br />This is the dressing room and powder room, just outside the main hall if you need any last minute touch-ups. I asked, but there was no botox shots or liposuctions on offer.
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<br />The lady in blue is wearing "hanbok" (한복), the traditional Korean costume.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/07.jpg">
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<br />To the right of the main entrance is the snapshot booth, where the bride sits for like 15 minutes to allow well-wishers to come up and say hi and/or have their photo taken with the bride for eternal cherishment. Obviously, bridegrooms are just a waste of film in Korea (or for those living in the digital age, a waste of memory card space). And no, the white bits wasn't the work of the make-up artist.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/08.jpg">
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<br />The ceremony kicks off with the ladies in red ushering the parents of the couple to their seats at the front. This is followed by the couple's "dum dum dum dum" march down the aisle.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/09.jpg">
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<br />Here's the bit I find a little off. It appears that the common practice at these sort of do is to hang out, stand and chat away at the back of the hall ......
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/10.jpg">
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<br />..... even though there's lots of empty seats upfront. Guess everyone is just poised for a quick getaway.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/11.jpg">
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<br />I do, you do, let's do.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/12.jpg">
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<br />Bow to the parents, get their blessing, and try not to stare at the cameraman too long to be this obvious that you're not paying attention.
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<br />Note wedding cake and lone pianist in the background.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/13.jpg">
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<br />I now pronounce you hubbie and wifey.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/wedding/14.jpg">
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<br />The ceremony ends with a family photo session. The couple and parents adjourned to the customary tea-serving ceremony in their traditional Korean costumes, which this papparazzi was not privy to. While they're busy at it, the guests are off to stuff their face. .... Part 2. FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6492453.post-1097136621109961832004-10-15T13:30:00.000+09:002004-10-15T13:38:23.520+09:00Bulgogi DosirakYep, another round of dosirak for lunch today folks. This time it's the bulgogi dosirak (불고기도시락) , or stir-fried beef in bulgogi sauce.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/dosirak2/01.jpg" />
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<br />Ta-da!
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/dosirak2/02.jpg" />
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<br />Hmm ..... I must be slacking cause I don't know what vege this is. Chives? With a healthy dose of garlic chili paste.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/dosirak2/03.jpg" />
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<br />Clockwise (from 1 o'clock) - sauteed beansprouts, sauteed cucumber slices, brinjals with a hint of garlic and chili paste, and that pork-skin-like-but-tastes-anchovy-like-thingy, which <a href="http://blog.woojay.net/">woojay</a> (a regular here) thinks could be jweepo (dried fish). Those familiar with this Jedi Apprentice knows he's seldom wrong. And thanks to keri too for confirming.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/dosirak2/04.jpg" />
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<br />Clockwise (from 1 o'clock) - cabbage kimchi, cuttlefish kimchi, I'm-too-tired-to-figure-out vege, kimchi pajeon (pancake) and camera-shy behind the pajeon is a tempura-battered shredded potato.
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<br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/fatman_seoul/dosirak2/05.jpg" />
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<br />The main dish - the thinly sliced beef broiled in brown bulgogi sauce, with large onions, garlic, leek and carrot slices for colour. Another Happy Meal, and it's not from the clown burgers. KRW5,000.
<br />FatMan Seoulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08083526895422408724noreply@blogger.com0